Dear readers,
I was in my mid-teens when I got my first pimple — a horrifying red bump on my forehead that would soon be joined by more. And more. And more.
Hello, puberty.
My mom finally took me to see our family doctor, who told me that acne is part of life when you are an oily-skinned teen. He gave me a prescription for antibiotics and a chalky, sulphuric topical solution that I was supposed to diligently use until my skin cleared up.
It didn’t. At least, not until my early 20s, when my hormones finally settled down and my skin cleared like clouds evaporating on a sunny day. I’d get the occasional pimple every so often, but for the most part, my skin was … cured.
Wrong.
By the time I hit my late 40s, my oily skin had become more combination in appearance. I noticed the start of fine lines around my eyes, and the development of those ’11’ marks that settle between your eyebrows. My skin felt dry without moisturizer, and got a whole lot more sensitive to everything — from sun exposure to cold and heat. No big deal, I thought. A good skin care system will handle this.
Wrong again.
One evening, as I was washing my face I spotted it. A coarse, dark hair. On my chin. WHAT THE … I grabbed my tweezers and yanked it out. But a few weeks later, there was another one. And then more. And more. And then, to add insult to injury: a pimple, nestled right between two hairs.
Hello, perimenopause.
Here’s the thing. Hormone imbalances — whether in your teens or in your 40s and beyond — can trigger breakouts. It has to do with too much androgens (hormones such as testosterone, mostly) and a decline in estrogen, the hormone that keeps our bones strong, helps stimulate collagen and oils in our skin and generally keeps us feeling functional.
But hormonal imbalances aren’t the only thing that can trigger breakouts. If you’re as annoyed as I am about having to battle wrinkles, hot flashes, chin hairs and pimples all at the same time, check these recommendations to minimize the breakouts:
Clean your skin with a mild cleanser every day. I’ve written about the importance of a good skin care system already, but it’s worth repeating that a good cleanser, toner, retinol, vitamin C, moisturizer and sunscreen regimen will help protect your skin and encourage collagen and cell repair. Make sure your products aren’t too abrasive or harsh or contain fragrances. And never, ever sleep with makeup on your skin, this is a sure-fire way clog your pores and lead to dull skin and breakouts.
Maybe your skin is just purging. If you’ve recently started a new skin care routine and suddenly notice your skin is breaking out, it could be skin purging — a reaction to an ingredient such as retinol or glycolic acid that speeds up cell turnover and causes your skin to shed dead cells and excess sebum. This buildup can clog pores temporarily while your skin is working to renew itself. You may see whiteheads, blackheads, cysts or tiny “pre-pimples,” often accompanied by patches of dry, peeling skin. The good news is that if it’s purging, you’ll see it only in areas where you frequently break out and they disappear faster than a normal pimple. Reduce your active ingredient use for a few days, continue with your cleanser and moisturizer and then reintroduce your active ingredients once your skin has settled down.
Treat breakouts with products containing AHA (alpha-hydroxy acids) or BHA (benzoyl peroxide acid) to disinfect and diminish pimples. Never use other actives such as retinol or vitamin C with these, though, or you risk severe irritation and skin barrier damage.
Check your diet. A lot of research seems to link an increase in acne when you consume refined sugar, refined carbohydrates, soda, fast food, and (NOOOOOOO!) even chocolate. On the flip side, foods high in Omega-3 fatty acids (seafood, nuts, etc), probiotics, green tea, turmeric, foods containing vitamins A, D E and zinc, or Mediterranean-style diets can all lower your risk of acne.
Minimize stress. Okay, this one can be hard to manage, but stress and poor sleep not only cause a loss of collagen in your skin (leading to fine lines and sagging skin) but can also trigger breakouts. Try to find a few minutes at the end of the day to relax and meditate, plan some healthy meals and activities for the next day, and turn in early when you can. Your skin will thank you.
Throw out makeup products that are more than a year old and wash your brushes regularly with shampoo or mild soap and water (at least monthly.) Bacteria, oils and grime can build up on the surface of brushes, sponges and makeup and then transfer to your skin. You may also be getting clogged pores from oil-based products or sunscreens that are too heavy for your facial skin. Try changing out some of your heavier products for oil-free versions and see if your blemishes disappear.
Hair removal services such as waxing, electrolysis or laser hair removal can all trigger breakouts in the treated area because the skin is irritated and temporarily more vulnerable to bacteria and oils. Similarly, skin treatments like Morpheus8 can trigger breakouts (and they did for me, read the blog on how the treatment works and what to expect in the days after this service.) Be sure to use only mild cleansers and moisturizers, avoid products with fragrance and skip actives like retinol and vitamin C for up to a week after an intense skin service to allow your skin to heal.
And finally, talk to your doctor about whether hormone replacement therapy, antibiotics or red light therapy would help banish your blemishes.
My latest breakout has settled down but the redness is still visible. I’ll spend some time with red light therapy this week to clear that up. My bratty chin hairs are mostly white and impervious to lasers. They’re a huge annoyance, so I’ll soon be trying out electrolysis to deal with them. My sensitive skin will probably break out all over again at the treatment site, but after that, maybe without their little hairy companions, my pimples will go away for good.
See you all soon,
~Michelle
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